HOmecomeWING – South Korea (Seoul)
south korea is not my actual heritage, but it is my heart’s home. it is through this nation’s people, food, and culture that i have learned how to enjoy food with more depth and appreciation, develop an eye for aesthetics, pursue excellence in music and language, and really embrace my own identity by seeing life from a different perspective. needless to say, it was with great joy that i was able to bring two near and dear friends to meet this second home, to enjoy all that this city has to offer.

in december 2016, my sister and i landed in south korea in the late evening, and pomato, right around the corner from our humble airbnb studio, greeted us with the wonder of its cheap, delicious kimbap and the most bomb rice cake dumpling soup, hot and steamy, on a cold winter’s night. it’s a late evening on our arrival in may 2019, and i’m so happy to be greeted once more by the same familiar sights and yummy dishes

day one – kimbap ladies on the side of the road serve the most delicious kimbap in huge portions. We finished every bite. The secret – that sesame oil sprinkled on top adding that amazing nuttiness and depth of flavor

we tried to go down this alley and order one dish between the three of us, and as the ahjumma’s heard our request, they instantaneously went from soliciting our business to shooing us along and rejecting us, spreading the news about us with derision to each of the stalls in front of us. We were finally ushered into a corner at the front of the alley as the lady graciously allowed us to order one dish. We’ve definitely been blacklisted here (photo by W)

rice cakes of every variety – pretty and delicious

maybe it’s because i’m an extremely habitual person, so every time I’m in Seoul, i always start with the same route – Namdaemun market and the gate, and we walk north all the way until we reach the palace.

coincided with a gate ceremony and got a photo with one of the guys (everyone wanted a photo with the center guy but we wanted to give the side guy some love)

Seoul Metropolitan Library – “A day without a name still becomes spring; a flower without a name still smells fragrant”

the most beautiful city hall in the world (photo by C)

i love the lovely gyeongbokgung, but one thing i’ve never been able to do is successfully take a good photo with the beautiful bugaksan properly in the background

tongin market is such a fun lunch spot, but we arrived late, and were unfortunately only able to grab some lukewarm leftovers. how do they make the pancakes so good?? (photo by W)

injeolmi everything – ice and toast! this was a delicious first for me (photo by W)

Korea has always been about fulfilling dreams, my own and others as well – so stopping here to grab a hotbar (fishcake on a stick) and fulfilling one of C’s dreams was very exciting!

the streets of dongdaemun rife with sights and smells, activity and movement, life and people. N Seoul tower peeking through

Sarangbang Kalguksu is the recommendation of my roommate. Lots of side dishes, a savory light stock broth, and strips of chicken ripped straight off the bone to dip in either the soup or the tangy, sweet, spicy sauce – not the prettiest meal, but loads of yum!

Step into any convenience store in Asia, and you’ll want to come out with every item on the shelf

the korean people are so impeccable with color. somehow, they just slap together four or five very vibrant and very different colors together, and it looks classy and chic, never tacky. i was not created to look very flattering in pink, but this was one of those moments when it was worth it to pick something lifegiving over nice looking (photo by W)

W’s poses are literally straight from the cinema. A-lister (photo by C)

hanboks – spring edition (photo by W)

i love myself and the place that i have given in life, but i still wish there were more opportunities to dress up, to play pretend, and to masquerade in another identity. so much fun to step into other shoes occasionally (photo by W)

this grandma stopped us on the street to fix the bow in the hanbok top. such a sweet moment of pride for her own people and their traditions in the form of a kind act

revisiting a favorite meal from last time – i love the plates here

dessert!!! baked injeolmi toast and smoothies and traditional cinnamon ginger drinks from this super nice lady (she even gave us free crackers for taking a long time!) – such a nice time to just rest and enjoy and play games and hide from the heat (photo by W)

ssamgiri -the kind of place where you just want to buy all the artisan goods from every store you see, from DIY goops to carabiners to journals to soaps to stationery to plants and more

hongdae by night – college town

of course the college kids have access to the best fried chicken (photo by W)

i still remember the first time we came to this market and my sister was super hesitant about eating something as unappetizing sounding as a mung bean pancake. our fears were instantly banished by the savory, crunchy-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside flavor of the pancake dipped into the perfectly complementary sauce, complete with fermented raw onions. also tragic is the fact that i tried to eat one in the States one time, and it was just NOT the SAME (photo by C)

they let us order one bibimbap without any questions asked. needless to say, we love this market

the fattest spicy rice cakes in the world (photo by C)

this is one of my dreams – popping by a convenience store on a hot day to look through and purchase your favorite ice pop

cityscape from ehwa mural village, which was an excruciating walk up – hopefully worth it

common ground – i don’t know how they contrived to make shipping containers look so good, but they did, and here they are. the best part of this trip was the a/c and eating the tempura at a restaurant after

i tell everyone that this is my favorite moment of the trip, when we looked up the best grilled intestine restaurants in the city and made a special trip out to this stop just for dinner. and it’s not just because the food was good. it was the fact that it was something i wanted to do but few people in my life would have gone on such a dinner expedition with me. to have friends who would come alongside with me, desire to do the things i want to do, and enjoy the things i enjoy was so empowering and made me feel really loved. thankful for friends and grilled intestines (photo by W)

i literally cried when i took the first bite. what a beautiful intersection of time, tastebuds, and friendship (photo by W)

coin-operated karaoke machines make for a cheap and extremely fun post-dinner experience. my go-to karaoke song these days is “love the way you lie” by eminem and rihanna. what’s yours? (photo by W)

perspective is such a funny thing – i’ve been to ddp multiple times and was unimpressed, so i didn’t even put it on our itinerary, but C mentioned wanting to go, so we went. imagine my shock when C and W were both blown away and fully amazed by the structure. i clearly have much more to learn about what my friends like, and that’s okay! the taiwanese night market being hosted on site was also helpful

my name is chris paul and i’m a victim (photoset by C)

biking by hangang – C’s brilliant idea for our last morning in seoul ended up being one of my favorite activities and a new memory for the annals (photo by C)

an ahjumma dragged my brother into this jokbal restaurant three years ago and i was so angry that time because there was way too much food for the two of us. so i came back with an extra person, but it was still way too much.

seoullo 117 – a beautified skywalk area next to the train station with lots of plants, benches, and an atmosphere of peace in the midst of the city bustle. Plus a view of the beautiful train tracks